Day 108 North Pacific Ocean

Friday, 1/30/2009, partly sunny. We continue to have swells from the front, with pitch, but no roll. Pitch is easier than roll. Finished reading the 'Protege' by Stephen Frey last night. I was outside in the dark at 0600. Saw Polaris and the Big Dipper for the first time in a while. Saw Scorpio. Orion was over the horizon. The Focsl was wet today. About every 40th swell splashed over the bow. I stayed out of the paint today.

The jobs of the crew fall into several groupings: Line officers include the Master, Chief Officer, 2nd Mate, 3rd Mate. Engineering officers include the Chief Engineer, 2nd Engineer, 3rd Engineer, and Electrician. Petty Officers include the Bosun and Fitter. Ratings include Able Bodied Seaman(3), Ordinary Seaman(3), Deck Cadet(3), Oiler(2), Cook, Steward, Carpenter(2).

Today's image is the pool with water. It was taken when we were in a warmer place. Perhaps it will be filled once more near Panama. Wouldn't it be a trip to be swimming in the pool while we are going through the Panama Canal! Our Canal appointment is for 2/11/2009. There is a Canal web cam. Maybe you can watch us go through. Right now, our course is changing to a great circle route to the south. It is actually a straight line, but looks like a curve on most maps. It is time to watch part of a movie and to read.

Day 107 North Pacific Ocean

Thursday, 1/29/2009, partly sunny. Woke at 0445. Looked out my south window. With no moon visible, it is very dark. Many stars were visible. Some stars near the horizon are not familiar. My curiousity was not great enough to dig out the star charts and dress for a look outside. I went back to bed.

I am glad to have a starboard cabin on days like this. As I watch the ocean roll by, the sun feels good as it warms my face. There are no white caps. After lunch, when I walk to the Focsl, the wind from the starboard fore quarter (right front) is brisk. Later in the day, the roll picked up. The image today is Krakatoa, which is south of Sumatra. It erupted in 1883 spewing more than 5 cubic miles of debris into the air. The outer islands are all that remain of the crater rim. The inner island is still venting steam, which is visible. Our time advances again tonight to the time zone of Hawaii. Our time will be only 4 hours behind CST.

Day 106 Western Hemisphere, No Pacific

Wednesday, 1/28/2009, cool and pleasant. The sky turned blue and sunny this afternoon. My tropical tan has been fading for the last month. I sat on the Pilot Deck and enjoyed the sun on my face for a few minutes. There is some roll and wind, but the sea is almost glassy, with no white caps. Clouds rolled in at sunset. Last night, there were stars overhead and to the north! The south was hazy. Again, this is our second Wednesday because of crossing the International Date Line. I upload my posts after supper, so they will appear after 11 pm CST, gradually getting earlier.

Hawaiian toast was offered this morning for breakfast. It reminded me of a Hawaiian hamburger. It was a thin slice of ham on toast with a pineapple ring, and a piece of cheese melted over the top. I had only one and it was tasty. I suspect in Hawaii, they would use that canned meat product from Minnesota. All the gadgets went dead at the same time. Had to recharge the iPod overnight, then the satellite phone, and finally the laptop. Walked to the Focsl after lunch. I'm probably in trouble with the deck crew. I didn't notice until too late that one spot of deck paint was still tacky. I finished the big sudoku book. Tonight, I'm going to watch the 2nd half of 'Cowboys' with John Wayne. I hope tomorrow is Thursday. Today's picture is of the chains on the ship used to secure the cargo to the deck. Sometimes nylon straps are used depending on the size and weight of the cargo needing securing.

Day 105 International Date Line

Wednesday, 1-28-2009, bits of sunlight. At 10 am the sea was
nearly glassy. It is foggy at 1700. Sailing has been very smooth thus far, for the North Pacific. Later this day, we cross the International Date Line. Day 105, Wednesday, 1-28-2009, today. Day 106, Wednesday, 1-28-2009, tomorrow. This is like the movie 'Ground Hog Day'. We have another chance to make Wednesday an even better day. I hope the menu changes, not that there was anything wrong with the menu today. I just don't want to eat the same food two days in a row. What will change is our time difference, relative to home. Today, we are 18 hours ahead of CST. Tomorrow, we will be 5 hours behind CST.

Saw a pod of dolphins late this morning. I didn't have my camera, but as usual, George took excellent pictures. Had light drizzle as I walked to the focsl after lunch. Today's image is a cow cruise ship in Jakarta. It reminds me of how I feel on a regular cruise ship. MOOO!

Day 104 North Pacific

Tuesday, sunny until midday, then overcast. The improvement in mood of people is noticable. I did a load of laundry this morning. I walked to the focsl this morning, in the sun. I tried making another video, this time round trip. The image I am sending today is the overhead speed indicator for the Maglev train in Shanghai, 424 kilometers per hour. I wasn't fast enough with my camera to catch the maximum of 431 kph. That is about 259 miles per hour.

Time advances another hour tonight, making our time 18 hours ahead of CST at home. This is the time zone of New Zealand, Fiji Island, Kamchatka, and Marshall Islands. I will have some more interesting specifics about our crossing of the International Date Line in the next post. I think Day 105 and Day 106 will both be Wednesday, January 28th, 2009 for us.

Day 103 North Pacific

Monday, very foggy at first light, with light rain. The sun brokethrough the clouds for about a minute in the early afternoon. The ride is still relatively smooth. I phoned home after midnight and talked to my bride. She is happy that less than a month remains of my odyssey. The total time at sea is almost double my time at sea in the Navy plus time on 3 cruise ships. I walked to the focsl after lunch. Wore my rain gear, but probably didn't need the rain pants today. The wind was brisk at 30 knots from the SSE.

We had a discussion at the noon meal about the helpfulness of the various Rickmers agents. It is important to remember that this is not a cruise ship, and passengers must be fairly self sufficient. Many agents provided no help, or offered some assistance at a steep price. The following, more or less in order, were very helpful to us. Japan, Nagoya; After whining about being stranded on the ship because Immigration is closed on the weekend, the Nagoya agent's assistant did an extraordinary job of helping us through Immigration and Customs on Monday, getting us to the train station and helping with translation. This was all at no cost to us.
Thailand; The agent drove us into Bangkok and guided us all day. There was a cost, but it was reasonable, and he was just a good guy. He even bought us Christmas puffed rice snacks that I finished only yesterday. China; The agents at all three ports were very helpful; Shanghai, Dalian, and Xingang. Viet Nam; Only George went ashore, but was happy with the agent's assistance.

The image I forwarded today is from the Fine Arts Museum of Antwerp. I like white marble sculpture. This is my all time favorite. Notice the smile. How alive! See her in Antwerpen.

Day 102 North Pacific

Sunday, 1/25/2009, rainy and overcast all day, with fog on the horizon. The sea water is warm and the air moving above it is cooler. The party last night was to recognize the new Captain. The food was plentiful and tasty. Stars were not visible. Afterwards, I finished watching the movie 'The Queen'. Lunch today was steak, fries, and broccoli. For me, that was half a steak. I skipped the soup, but had the dessert of ice cream and fruit. After lunch, I walked to the focsl. The wind from the north was brisk on the focsl. The deck crew was not working today, so I walked 5 laps, about a mile and a quarter. Be prepared! I wore my full rain gear and stayed dry. The ship is making good time. As the ship moves further into the Pacific, the swells are increasing, but still not bad. There are a few white caps now, and the tops are being blown off by the wind. Saw a bird at 16:30, a sea eagle, I think. Because the Pacific is so large, there are often small swells from more than one direction, from storms far away. Supper tonight was pizza with red and green peppers and black olives. My dreams tonight will be interesting.

Time advances another hour tonight to the time of the Solomon Islands and New Caledonia. We are 17 hours ahead of CST now. Many of the coming days will be similar on this journey across the North Pacific. I'm going to start attaching more images. Today's image is the ship's escape-pod life boat. A drill was scheduled yesterday afternoon, but was cancelled because of the weather. Capacity is 36. The crew totals 26 and there are 3 passengers, so we all get a seat.

Day 101 Pacific Ocean

Saturday, overcast and warmer. The horizon is foggy. The sun broke through the clouds once today. Rained in the pm. The North Pacific has a great, clockwise circulating gyre, which the salmon ride. We are following a more constant latitude to avoid the rougher seas to the north. With the ship more fully loaded, the sailing is still smooth. It is a quiet day, well suited for reading and writing. Today is special for several reasons. The Captain forwarded a nice email from a Rickmers reader. The slop chest is open today for the first time in nearly a month. We had barbeque on the Pilot Deck tonight!

Day 100 Pacific Ocean, east of Japan

Friday, 1/23/2008, started sunny and mild. There were whitecaps. Turned overcast and cooler, with rain late in the day. The sea turned battleship gray. Midday, we began to have more roll. Last night, there were stars. The sailing was smooth.

For the next 15 days, the ship will move across the North Pacific an average of 8 degrees longitude per day, through another 7 time zones. We will also repeat a whole day after we cross the International Date Line, like in the movie, 'Around the World in 80 Days'. Tonight, the ship's clocks will be advanced 1 hour, putting us in the time zone of Guam, Sydney, and Vladivostok. I have manually adjusted my watch and computer. At 13:00, I made a second trip to the Engine Room. This amazing engine has a verticle height of 4 decks, and has 7 cylinders. It is a 2 cycle marine engine with a displacement of 4750 liters, by my calculation. I wore my noise cancellation headphones.

Afterwards, I walked to my favorite spot on the focsl and listened to humor on the Ipod. I could see no other ships. Including the Engine Room trip, the focsl, meals and other trips, I went up and down 35 flights of stairs. At 17:00, the duty officer called to report 20 dolphins. Missed them again.

Day 99 Nagasaki

Thursday, overcast with light rain until mid-afternoon. Today was a quiet day on the ship. Watched cargo loading operations on this ship and another. The deck is quite full now. I'm reading 'Critical Mass, how one thing leads to another' by Philip Ball. It is about the application of math and science to human behavior.
17:00 Cranes are secured. 18:45 Lines are cast off. 18:50 The ship is underway.

Note: Fellow passenger George has a blog as well and this is a reminder that his link is just to the right.

Day 97 Nagoya to Nagasaki

Tuesday, 1/20/09, partly sunny. Checked out of the Nagoya hotel at 0800. Had kind of a continental breakfast and coffee, before boarding the Shinkansen, at 0915. The Shinkansen is the bullet train. The first train took us to Hakata on the island of Kyushu, passing through Kyoto and Hiroshima on the way. That trip segment took almost 4 hours. After 15 minutes to find the right track, the second train took us from Hakata to Nagasaki in 2 hours. We took a tram for 100 Yen to our hotel.

After checking in, we walked through part of China Town. Later, we found a covered retail area, the Spectacles Bridge, and 2 shrines. The Spectacles Bridge is an old double arch bridge, built in 1634 by a Zen Buddhist priest. We returned to the retail area and selected a Japanese restaurant for dinner. I had a beer and a sliced beef set, which included miso soup, a lettuce and tomato salad, a spinach mystery, thinly sliced spicy beef, green beans and carrots, rice and green tea. Walked back to the hotel and settled in for the night.

Day 98 Nagasaki

Wednesday, overcast. The temperature is comfortable. For breakfast, we walked to McDonalds for a fat fix. Dr. Dieter always sets a good example for us, and ate healthy anyway. I checked out of the hotel. Dieter and I caught the 100 Yen tram. I wasn't paying enough attention, and we visited a neighborhood we hadn't planned to see. Fortunately, we made a quick recovery, and in the process rode by Dejima, the Dutch settlement from 1600s.

We caught the correct tram and went to the Peace Park to see the Peace Statue. Took pictures. We walked to the ground zero marker and the Peace Museum. Admission is still 200 Yen. No pictures are allowed inside. Like Hiroshima, it is a somber experience. You cannot tole the bell for peace here, because the bell rope has been removed. We walked to Nishizaka Hill, where in 1597, the shogun Toyotomi Hideyoshi crucified 26 sainted Christians. There is a stone bas relief monument, and a very interesting church, with ceramic encrusted towers. Met George at the train station at noon for a continental breakfast-lunch. George shopped books, and I bought some special double-sided tape for the second mate for map updates. Our last stop was the supermarket, our final opportunity for treats before the Pacific crossing. I bought tooth paste, deodorant, 2 kinds of Japanese snacks, dark chocolate cookies, Ritz crackers, and 4 kinds of red wine. As I write this, I'm tasting something from Argentina called Malbec. While it has a screw top bottle, corks don't do any good for 2 buck chuck. My opinion. It is passable.

With help from the Fiedler web site, the tourist info ladies, and the local agent, we were able to communicate to the taxi driver where to take us. The tourist info ladies wrote out instructions in kanji characters. We were back on the ship by midafternoon. I had time to do some laundry before supper. In-port is a good time to do laundry, because the machines are very busy the first few days out of port. Met the new captain tonight in the stairwell. The previous captain leaves us tomorrow. Schedule changes are continuous. Now it is possible that we will stop in Vancouver, Canada. It is also possible that we will stop in New Orleans before we dock in Houston. Be sure to also look at George's BLOG. I have never seen it, but I have seen his phenominal photos.

Day 96 Nagoya

Monday, 1/19/09, overcast. We were packed and waiting for the agent after breakfast, at 0800. The agent kindly drove us and assisted us through Immigration and then Customs. Afterwards, he drove us into Nagoya, and helped us make hotel reservations at JR Travel. JR is Japanese Rail. I've been to Japan 14 times before, and this Immigration and Customs experience was unique, and very different from Narita. We were apparently a great exception. After the agent brought us to the facility, we waited for 3 Immigration officials to arrive from another facility. They were very courteous and polite and formal and thorough. We were instructed to only fill out the right side of the Immigration card, pending successful individual interviews. After we each explained that we were passengers on the freighter, George opened his computer and showed the Rickmers web page for freighter travel. We were then invited to fill out the rest of the Immigration card. Next, they took our pictures and recorded finger prints from both index fingers. Next, the agent drove us to Customs and agents there searched our overnight packs.

At JR travel, my Visa card wouldn't work, for hotel reservations or train tickets, despite 3 month advance notice to Visa. My credit line is adequate and my account is current. The merchant's charge request came back with a request to call a local Visa number. The merchant tried to call the number 8 or 9 times, but it was always busy. Later, when I got through on the number, I got a recording in Japanese. When I called Visa in the US, they claimed they blocked travel agents in Japan until they called for the recording, supposedly requiring merchants to check IDs. This happened to me a few years ago with a Visa card from another company. My opinion is that if you are travelling to Japan, don't rely on Visa, because they have left me hanging twice. Fortunately for me, George was kind enough to pay my expenses, and I repaid him in USD. So, after that, we checked into one of the station hotels, and did a little exploring and looking at the stores. We went to this amazing store called BIC Camera. Finally, we had a delightful Japanese dinner, of beer, miso soup, sushi, sashimi and other goodies, before retiring.

Day 95 Nagoya, Japan

Sunday, overcast with rain starting at noon. Yesterday and last night: The unloading of the adjacent ship was completed after dark. The ship's crane unloaded 16 pallets at a time. A choreography of 8 forklift drivers moved a pallet at a time onto waiting semi truck-trailers, without getting in each other's way. Large I-beams were washed before being loaded into the deep holds of this ship. Today, loading of the I-beams and other cargo continues, even after the rain starts. There is a barge along side the ship with more cargo. Dock workers wear color coded helmets and shoulder straps. Sometimes they use whistle signals to coordinate activities. I have not seen cargo operations go this smoothly at any of the other ports.

I will be off the air again until 1/22/09. In the morning, we are going to bust out of this place and escape on the bullet train to Nagasaki. Hopefully, we will rejoin the ship there, and I will retroactively post the missing days.

Day 94 Nagoya, Japan

Saturday, partly sunny. Yesterday, while we were still in the Pacific, George saw a large group of dolphins, around 50. I missed seeing them. Last evening: As we were coming up the bay to Nagoya, the sky was clear, and I saw stars for the first time in days. Must be an airport nearby, because air traffic was heavy. Dropped anchor outside the port entrance. At dawn today, the anchor was raised, and the pilot brought the ship to dock around 0730. Loading operations are proceeding. Unlike the docks I saw in the US and Europe, the docks in Asia have been new and clean. The officer's mess was full today with guests. I ate in the crew's mess. Passengers are cooling our jets until Immigration opens Monday morning. I read and wrote and did a sudoku puzzle.

Day 93 Pacific Ocean

Friday, cool, but sunny. 12 degrees C. The water was very calm this afternoon. We are on the Pacific side of Japan today, headed for Nagoya. The ship will wait until morning to dock, because pilots don't work at night here. While the crew can go ashore, we are told that the passengers cannot, because Immigration is closed on weekends. I guess we won't be spending any money in this port to help the Japanese recession.

The ship was buzzed by a fighter jet this morning, a little after 1030. I walked to the focsl for the first time in days. Didn't stay long. I recorded a video on the way forward. On the return trip, I walked on the port side. There was a lot of water running on the deck, to wash it. Had another general alarm drill and lifeboat drill mid-afternoon, at 1520. The sunset was red tonight. It was the first I have seen or noticed in nearly 2 weeks. Supper was called Minute Meat. It was a stir fry, and was quite good.

Day 92 East China Sea

Thursday, overcast and cool, 6 degrees C. Most of the day, there are some swells and roll, but no white caps. In the afternoon, the sea looks cold and battleship gray. Yesterday and today, I have caught up on my posts for the 10 days I was away from the ship in China. I am back on schedule with this post. The new steward is Ronald. We are becoming familiar with the food of the new cook. He does eggs ok. Had deep fried calamari for supper. I look forward to some reading and music and a movie tonight. The time advances an hour tonight. Tomorrow, we will be 15 hours ahead of CST.

Day 91 Shanghai to the ship

Wednesday, 1/14/09, still sunny and cold. I am packed, fed and checked out when Sam arrives at 1000. We take the red line north to where his car is parked. Sam brings me inside the port gate, where I must ride the shuttle bus to the ship. We say goodby, and I thank him for his kind assistance. The crew seemed pleased and surprised that I was able to feed myself and get back to the ship on time. The time window was tight, much less than the published schedule. Originally scheduled to depart on 1/16/09, we depart today at 1800. Because I have been away from the ship, the agent takes me to Immigration. They wanted to verify that I matched my passport.

It is comfortable to return to my temporary and familiar home on the ship. I look forward to the bed and the roll I will experience tonight. A few summary thoughts: It was nice to have a 10 day break from the ship. Because my ship space and meals were paid for, the total cost per day for those 10 days more than doubled.

The changes in China are incredible! Ann and I were in Beijing in 2004. Shanghai and Beijing are certainly showcase cities with high air quality standards and cleaner power plants. The news is full of stories about green topics and conservation. I saw tree planting continuing. There is so much new construction. A few sites were standing still, perhaps because of the cold or the economic slowdown. In the park areas, I saw retired people active and exercising every day, even in the cold of January. There is now a retirement plan somewhat like Social Security. Health insurance and unemployment insurance is available. I enjoyed my visit.

Day 90 Shanghai

Tuesday, sunny, cold, and hazy. After another great breakfast, I take a taxi to the Taikang Road art area. After walking around and looking for a while, I began the hour and a half walk back to hotel. I follow my shadow north, sometimes stair stepping the blocks to the east to get through. When I am tired at Shanghai Times Square, I look up and see a Starbucks. It is time for another Chinese cranberry muffin.

Part of the next trek takes me up a pedestrian overpass. The north wind is biting. I see a man playing an instrument that makes a sound like a violin. It is a long stick with strings stretched from top to bottom, which he plays with a bow. The cross street which bisects People's Square has a pedestrian underpass, which connects to the large subway station beneath People's Square. I come out across from the hotel. I exchange my remaining Yuan for 40 dollars.

After dinner, I call fellow passenger George on the ship, who confirms that the ship has docked. I am saddened to learn that one of our passengers is flying home tonight because of a medical problem. Also, a crewman with pneumonia will be sent home tomorrow. The upcoming passage across the North Pacific without hospital support would be too much risk for either of them.

Day 89 Shanghai

Monday, still sunny and cold, but hazy. Sam spends part of the day with me. We take the subway to the financial district. We go up the Pearl of the Orient TV tower. I believe this is the 3rd tallest building in China. The first and second tallest buildings are visible nearby. There are many school children on the second level, about 8 years old. Many ask how old I am, convinced I must be ancient because of my hair color. Afterwards, there is a museum on the lower level. We enjoy refreshments afterwards. We take the subway halfway back, stopping to make a purchase for Dave. Late afternoon, when I am back in my room, there is some kind of an event across the street. Two police cars, an ambulance, and a van with bars on the windows, appear and then leave after a few minutes.

Day 88 Shanghai

Sunday, sunny, clear and cold. I walk to the other side of People's Square and find the Shanghai Museum. I must walk to the other side to enter. I think this is a feng shue thing. Two more young couples try to do the tea ceremony scam. Perhaps this is like a parttime job on weekends. Typical questions are, 'Are you traveling alone?' and 'How long will you be here?'

The Shanghai Museum is excellent, and heated! Today, admission is free. I spend 3 hours there. I take the escalators to the 4th floor and work my way down. I did not see the audio guide rental, but wasn't looking very hard. Most sections have 1 sheet guides, written in Chinese, English, and Japanese. A serious young art student expresses surprise at seeing me, a foreigner, interested in Chinese art. He tells me most young Chinese are not very interested in Chinese art or history. I walk past the Shanghai Grand Theatre on the way back. The Chicago Symphony is playing tonight.

Day 87 Shanghai

Saturday, sunny, clear, and cold. I am glad to have my ski gloves. After breakfast, I take a taxi further west on Nanjing Road to a mall and shopping area. I take a picture of the Prada store for my daughter-in-law. I think that makes 3 locations now. There are not many shoppers in the upscale retail stores, neither foreigners nor locals. There is a Gold's Gym nearby. I stop for a McCoffee. As I am walking back to the hotel, I see a Subway sandwich shop. I see no customers in the Porsche and other high-end auto stores.

Day 86 Xi'an back to Shanghai

Friday, 1/9/09, hazy, sunny, and cold. The rest of my stay is Shanghai is sunny, but cold. The driver is a little early, and tries to renegotiate the price again. At the airport, I discover I am in the first class line, but the lady helps me anyway. I misread the seat number for the gate number and walk to the opposite end of the airport from where I am supposed to be. I am early, so it is not a problem. After take off, we climb out of the darker air and into clear sunlight at about 10,000 feet. The meal and beverage are free again. I choose fish-rice. Another difference is that the airline food actually tastes good here.

At Shanghai, I ride the new Maglev train (magnetic levitation), which takes me 2/3 of the way back to the city center in 8 minutes. Max speed is 430 kilometers per hour. Except for one bump, the ride is smooth, with even acceleration the first half, and even deceleration on the second half. I had wondered if there would be any unusual sensation, like all the iron in my blood moving to the top of my head, but it felt just like a regular train. Lonely Planet says the cars on the road look like they are going backwards. They really do. I take the subway the rest of the way to People's Square and the Park Hotel. The cost and the time of the train and the subway are less than half of the cost and time of a taxi. I watch and enjoy the evening view from my room above the park. After dark, there are moving light effects on the Capitaland Building. Pizza Hut delivers in China.

Day 85 Xi'an Terracotta Warriors

Thursday 1/8/09, very hazy, sunny and cold. Xi'an is pronounced kind of like SHEE-ANN. My driver was waiting for me at 0900, the appointed time. On the way, he stops to refill the vehicle with LNG. The fill cap is in the engine compartment. Negotiated the same price all over again, with help from the driver's English speaking friend, by cell phone. I confirm that I do not want to visit the other sites, only the Terracotta Warriors and the city Bell Tower, before returning to the hotel. The side trip for fuel and the drive to the Terracotta site take about an hour. It is cold. I am wearing a layer of thermal underwear, and wished I had also worn the second layer. After a cell phone call, an English speaking guide arrives. We run through the whole taxi price and return schedule again. Her fee is 100 Yuan, about 13 USD, and very well worth the cost. She is tall and bright, and enjoys her job.

The winter admission price is 65 Yuan. There are 4 pits. The 4th is empty, and unexcavated. Pit 1 is the largest and best known. I take a series of pictures, which I think I can join together into a panorama. Pit 3 contains high ranking officers. Pit 2 is only partially excavated. The contents are known and mapped, but scholars and researchers are waiting until better excavation techniques are developed, so that the color may be preserved. There are some excellent statues in glass display cases, which ordinary people can get close to. Dignitaries are sometimes permitted into the pits, close up to the actual statues. Made a short visit to the gift shop, where jade and stone carvings may be purchased. Replicas of the warriors carved from the same material can be purchased. The cost of a life-size replica including shipping, and before winter discount, is 13,000 Yuan, about 2000 USD. I settle for a packet of post cards. On the return trip, the driver proceeds into the old walled city, which has been restored. He parks south of the Bell Tower so I may take pictures.

Back at the hotel, I try to get my air ticket confirmed for the next day, but that apparently is not done. I enjoyed this part of China very much. If I had more time, and it was warmer, I would have visited the provincial fine art museum, which was only a few blocks away. Technology is amazing. After midnight, I am able to watch the President-elect's speech live on CNN. I watch about 20 minutes before going to sleep.

Day 84 Shanghai to Xi'an

Wednesday, rainy and gray. After an early breakfast, I stored my suitcase at the hotel and took a taxi to the Pudang Airport. Fantastic self-check in: Didn't matter what airline, just entered passport number. Coffee was expensive, but good. RT airfare to Xi'an, 40% of the way across China, was 140 USD, and that included a meal and FREE beverages. YOU HEAR THAT DELTA-NW?

The taxi experience was memorable. There is almost no English here, except for the hospitality people. The taxi driver and I invented a way to communicate. A sleeping head meant the hotel. 'Beijing Olympics' wasn't understandable, but Beijing and a drawn Olympic symbol, and a thumbs up brought a smile. Numbers seem to be universally understood. We agreed to a half day contract for a trip to the Terracotta Warriors the next day. Hotel check-in was no problem. Visa is universally understood. The hotel is a 5 star, and is nice. I ate in the 'western restaurant'. Ordered a garden salad and salami pizza. Salami was no longer available, so I settled for a cheese pizza, and took half of it to my room for the second night.

The air standards here are lower than in Shanghai. The air is yellow-brown now in the winter, and the visibility is low. I have not used an inhailer since I was a child, but I was wishing I had one here. Took antihistamine and decongestant. I start reading Thunder Bay, a story from my home state.

Day 83 Shanghai

Tuesday, rainy, gray, and cold. After a leisurely breakfast, I walk down Nanjing Road to the Bund, the historic raised river bank of the Huangpu River. While there are many skyscrapers on my side, the 3 tallest buildings in Shanghai are across the river in the financial district. I see ocean-going ships coming up the river. The Huangpu River runs into the Yangzi River, below where the Rickmers Jakarta was docked.

After taking a picture of a mulitiple kite on the Bund, the seller tries to make a sale. I make the mistake of asking how much. He offers a kite for 100 Yuan. I really don't want a kite. He follows me for a long time, eventually offering 5 kites for 100 Yuan. My hip is getting sore. I tell him 'no' in Mandarin, and he finally gives up. So, just don't ask. There are boat trips on the Huangpu, which I am told are spectacular at night, but it is too cold. Many doors push-in here. It is necessary to pull these doors to exit. McDonalds does doors the western way. Driving is on the right. In Hong kong, driving is on the other side.

Day 82 Shanghai

Monday, rainy and gray. Prior to arrival, I had contracted to have a translator today, to help me with art translation. In Hong Kong, artist's names were only in Chinese characters. Here, however, artist's names are also in English. Kevin arrived at 9 am. We discussed Chinese history, culture, and logic system for an hour, before moving on to other topics. I asked for written instructions, in Chinese, that I could give the taxi driver in Xi'an. That proved to be a good precaution. I also asked Kevin to make some phone calls and get some information for me. After that, we explored Shanghai, visiting several areas, including the area and bazaar of the Yuyuan Garden. After lunch, we take a taxi to visit several private art galleries. Women taxi drivers are common here. One artist that I remember was Wu Guanzhong. This time of year, many galleries are unheated and cold. From the taxi, I see live chickens at a street market. Another person dies of bird flu in Beijing. I stop eating chicken.

Day 81 Shanghai

Sunday, rainy and gray, with a few minutes of sun in the afternoon. Shanghai is an incredible city. Like Beijing, it is a showcase city. The people of Shanghai like to compare it to NYC. I think that is a good comparison. Like NYC, there are some older and shabbier neighborhoods. The Pudong financial district and the Puxi area where I stayed were clean and bright, inspite of continuing construction. The subway system is new and modern. I had 3 main objectives on this visit to China. I wanted to see the Terracotta Warriors. I wanted a break from the ship. I wanted to see some more Chinese art.

Connected with Samuel using George's phone. Sam brought the other 3 passengers to the subway station, and me to the Park Hotel. Sam also helped me to buy air tickets for my side trip to Xi'an. After I checked in and exchanged some cash, I took a walk, finding a Starbucks on the corner of People's Park. Had a great Chinese cranberry muffin and coffee, a frequent lunch during my stay. Afterwards, while walking through the park, I encountered some friendly college age 'students', who asked to practice English, and invited me to a 'folk cultural event' tea ceremony. In Shanghai, I was approached over and over with this scam, sometimes after I was asked to take a picture. Also, 'Want to buy a watch?' Sunday was a work day for many people, because of the western New Year holiday earlier in the week.

The Park Hotel is a historic building. I stayed there before and after my trip to Xi'an. With its brownstone color, it stands out in contrast to the newer buildings around it. I found it to be secure and comfortable. My first room was on a side street and more modern. On my second stay, the room was older and needed work, but the view of the park was a 5 star view. I registered for the daily buffet breakfast, at 15 USD, which had western, Japanese, and Chinese selections. It was the best breakfast of this whole trip. I usually had a glass of grapefruit juice, 2 heavy whole grain toasts with butter, 4 kinds of cereal in a bowl with yogurt, a small piece of bacon, 2 kinds of fried vegetables, a potato cake, and 2 coffees. George asked me to pass along that he has not been able to update
his Blog from China, but will when we reach Japan.

Day 80 Shanghai

Saturday, smooth and sunny. Overcast after 1500. Washed 2 loads of clothes early today. I'm ready for China! After rhe pilot arrives, we start the 6 hour journey up the Yangzi River. The water carries sediment and has a characteristic brown color. Both the Yangzi and the Mekong of Viet Nam originate in the Himalayas. The traffic is heavy and multidirectional. Horn is a major mode of communication. It is easy to think in terms of car horn. Ship horn is an order of magnitude different. Tied up at 1645. Cleared Immigration, and transportation is confirmed for tomorrow.

Thank you David and Samuel for making this special excursion possible. I'll be booking air travel to the west tomorrow. I will be off the air for email and postings for the next 10 days, but will post retroactivly starting on January 14th. The other 3 passengers will return to the ship tomorrow night, and continue on to the ports of Dalian and Xingang. I have other things in mind, and will skip the cold and snow of northern China.

Day 79 East China Sea

Friday, overcast and cold. Temperature is 7 degrees C. I put on the wool blanket last night. I did not go to the focsl today. Duty officer confirmed that the storm yesterday was Beaufort scale 9. The roll meter incorrectly registered 30 degrees overnight, perhaps because of some of the hard swell impacts at the bow. There continues to be little roll because the swells are from the front. In the morning, the swells are still 5 to 6 meters. Today, the ship passed from the Taiwan Strait into the East China Sea. During late afternoon, we pass through scores of fishing boats. As the swells moderate, the ship resumes speed.

My corner cabin has 2 outside walls and the space above the ceiling is unheated. Midmorning, the temp was down to 18C. I tried turning on the heater in the bathroom, and it works now. Also, the air coming out of the ceiling vent is no longer cold. ETA for Shanghai is 1300 1/3/09, depending on the ship's speed. Starting 1/4/09, I will be off the ship for 10 days. Please check back on 1/14/09, when I will begin filling in the missing days with my mainland adventures. I will not be with the ship when it visits Dalian or Xingang. I will rejoin the ship, when it makes its final stop in Shanghai before leaving China.

Finished reading Fiddlers by McBain today. Tonight, I opened the first bottle of Chile cabernet that I bought in Hong Kong. It is ok. Chocolate supply may be enough for the duration. Finished the soynuts from home today.

Day 78 South China Sea

Thursday, New Years Day, started sunny with blue sky. Last night, we were not able to see the fireworks from the ship. The clouds above the island reflected a little light twice, but that was it. Another passenger bought a bottle of champaign in Hong Kong and shared. The four of us had interesting conversation until 0130. Weighed anchor around 0345. I woke to an intermittent banging noise after 0430. Knew what it was, but I went up to the pilot deck with my flashlight to make sure before reporting it. The aft crane was stowed, but the hook was loose, so it was moving and banging with the rolls. Reported it to the duty officer, who got it properly secured right away.

The ship is bearing north toward Shanghai. I went to the focsl before lunch today. I wore my blue rain shell. The hood worked really well at keeping my hard hat from being blown away. Because of the strong wind from the port fore quarter, I walk on the starboard side both ways. It feels cold. I do not stay long. Chef Roger has prepared another feast. I probably ate too much. It is a good day for a nap. I skip supper. As the day progresses, the seas become rougher. From mid-afternoon, there are heavy swells from the direction we are headed. The good news is that the roll is not bad, but we get regular vertical movement, and occasional abrupt shifts. The sun turns Japanese red as it sets through the horizon haze layer. This is Beaufort scale 7 at least, maybe 8 or 9. I read about China. I am excited. I also read fiction, which goes so fast compared to some of the non-fiction I have been reading.