Day 46 Mediterranean Sea

Sunday, started overcast. Afternoon was hazy low, clear and sunny high. For the last 2 days, the swells have been from the aft about the same speed as the ship. The ride has been smooth. At the Barbeque Event last evening, there was chicken, brats, fried rice, German chocolate cake, cheese cake, and many other goodies. There was a screen and karaoke set up, but I refrained. Some of the officers talked about what it was like to be at sea 25 years ago with no email or cell phones. I remember it well. We got mail because people still wrote letters. For the most part, crew members go to the local seamen's club and call or email. Some cell phones work close to the coast. One of the passengers flies a glider, which he owns cooperatively.

Our course has been close to Africa. I woke last night at 0300. The ship was only a few kilometers from the coast of Algeria. I could see many city lights. The sky was clear for a while, and the Moon has not risen. Orion was clear, as well as his hounds, Canis Major with Sirius, and Canis Minor. I found one of the Orion Nebulas, M42. Could see the color of the gas cloud through my binoculars. I know where to look next time for the other Orion Nebula, M78. Castor and Pollux of Gemini were too high in the sky to see from my cabin window, and I didn't want to see them enough to get dressed and go up to the Pilot Deck.

We entered another time zone last night, the Eastern European time zone. We are now 8 hours ahead of home. Walked to the focsl this afternoon. Spent an hour in the sun. Surfaces have a fine coating of salt crystals, which sparkle in the sunlight. Still wore 2 layers over my shirt.

Day 45 Mediterranean Sea

Saturday, overcast. Moderate swells from aft, with many whitecaps. Last evening was partly clear for a while. Like the last time I had a good look at the stars, there was no Moon. I was very glad there is a railing around the Pilot Deck. Saw the following: Cassiopeia, the big W, overhead. The Great Square of Pegasus. The Summer Triangle is still visible, early. Polaris. The Big Dipper is low in the sky and was covered by clouds. I thought I was seeing the Milky Way, but it turned out to be stack gas blowing sideways. Wasn't wearing my glasses.

We passed Gibraltar about 0145 this morning. I saw a string of lights on the African side, in the rain. Heard from others that there was thunder and lightening. The rain again washed the salt from my side window. Our general alarm drill was at 1020 this morning. Light rain. In the following life boat drill, I easily got the harness correctly attached and adjusted. Company policy is that we have the option to bring our life vest or the immersion suit, or both. The buoyant suit is closed cell neoprene, and better for cold water. The life vest is better for warm waters. I forgot to bring my hard hat today.

Thanks to all of you for your interest, but especially to my support team members, who have helped with things like lodging and transportation, cleaning up the transmission issues of my BLOG texts, looking up lyrics to songs or poems, researching terms, to name a few. It would be very difficult without your help! I could not remember the correct author of INVICTUS. I was influenced by the last 2 lines, which I first read as a freshman at the U. I am the master of my fate: I am the captain of my soul. William Ernest Henley, Yesterday, I finished reading Maya Angelou's touching story, I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings. Usually, I have up to 4 books going at a time, not counting the Sudoku book, or the language books.

Barbeque scheduled for tonight. 1800 on the Pilot Deck. Beer, wine, hamburgers, and other goodies. I have custody of the ships cork screw, and my assigned responsibility is to bring it. I might sing tonight.

Day 44 Atlantic Ocean, last full day

Friday, overcast early, changing to blue skies and sunny. There are some whitecaps. Temperature at midday was 17 deg C, a relief from the last several days. The sailing has been smooth and the roll minimal. We have permission to visit the bridge again. After lunch, I walked to the focsl. Near the front of the upper main deck, before the ladder to the focsl, there was some splash from the swells. In the dry areas, the deck crew's eternal battle against rust and corrosion continues with chipping and painting. Even though I had 2 layers over my shirt, the sun was pleasant. I sat on a small hatch and enjoyed the warmth on my face for half an hour.

I check out with the duty officer when I leave the accomodation structure, and check back in when I return. At 1600 the sun streaming in through the west window makes my cabin toasty. I see 5 other slower ships behind us, headed in the same direction. We are scheduled to pass through Gibraltar in the early morning hours. I predict a drill tomorrow morning, and a party tomorrow evening.

Day 43 Atlantic Ocean

Thursday, HAPPY THANKSGIVING! Tonight, I'll listen to Willie Nelson's rich voice crooning "You are always on my mind", and sip a glass of California merlot. For me, breakfast was pineapple juice, toast, and coffee; lunch was cabbage and chicken soup with a scoop of rice added, and salad, a piece of bread, ice cream with peach parts; supper was pork cutlets, fried potatoes, and vegetables, and a warm bun. There is always more available.

Dawn was like a Japanese painting, with pastel pinks and grays low on the eastern sky. Today was mostly overcast, but smooth sailing. The temperature is still crisp. Haven't stayed outside long. The sea was not like a mirror, but was glassy most of the day. It was an easy day to read. believe we are still over a day away from Gibraltar. My security software and windows software seem to get more agitated each day, because they are unable to update. My laptop battery needs recharging 2 times a day, depending on the specific application, and how much I use it. A charge is good for 2 hours. The ipod needs a charge every 6 or 7 days, depending on music or video. The phone lasts 3 or 4 weeks. Time for the holiday phone call!

Day 42 English Channel to Atlantic Ocean

Wednesday, overcast, became darker mid morning. Red sky at night, sailors delight. Red sky at morning, sailors take warning. - unknown author, The red dawn this morning was spectacular. During the night, we entered the shelter of the English Channel. We had virtually no roll for the latter part of the night. Today continues to be the smoothest ride so far. It was almost like being in port. Even at 1600, the ocean is still fairly smooth. Taking advantage of the easy sailing this morning, we walked to the focsle, all the way to the raised platform at the front most part.

Still chilly. It has been a good day for reading. It is more difficult to read when the sea is rough, but I can still type or do other computer tasks. We need to sail southwest, out and around the Iberian peninsula, Spain and Portugal, and turn east through Gibralter.

Day 41 North Sea, south bound!

Tuesday, partly sunny. The North Sea swells are back, so we have 6 second rolls again, but there have been few whitecaps. I went out on the Pilot Deck to see the sea, and the new cargo that was loaded in Hamburg. The large, most interesting cargo items are usually on top. Didn't stay long because of the biting cold. The final count of new passengers is 2. One is from Cologne, one is from a small town between Nurnberg and Munich. Both are friendly. I shared my discoveries about the laundry. We had no drill this morning, but it is only a matter of time, since there are new passengers, and a few new crew members.

Saw a very large oil platform to the west, early afternoon. Whoa. That was a good one. I can tell I'll be putting everything in drawers soon. On days like this, I have toast and coffee for breakfast, a scoop of rice with 2 ladles of soup over it for lunch, and a heavier supper. Probably a piece of dark chocolate, and a glass or 2 of red wine afterwards. I'm starting to ration my treats from home. From Ann's trail mix, today I will have one cashew, one almond, and one dried cherry. Maybe it is wishfull thinking, but it seems like the temperature is rising and the days are getting longer already.

Day 40 Hamburg

Monday, began overcast, but most of the day was sunny. The people who work outside complained of miserable humid cold in the early hours. I'm told that some emails don't make it through. Also, because of transmission problems, I've dropped most punctuation. Das tut mir leid. Well, not that sorry.

Many things get replenished here at the headquarter port. Got a new pillow and new sheets yesterday. Last night the ships supper was, appropriately, hamburgers in Hamburg. Tonight was my Thanksgiving meal. Had a roasted turkey drumstick with gravy and rice. The newest departure schedule is 0300 Tuesday. Won't stop until the Suez canal, and then Jakarta, around December 17. Sister ship, Shanghai, departed at 1400.

Here's the bow process for the Shanghai, which I could see really well from my cabin. We are really not able to see this happen for our own ship for safety reasons. Tugs show up and push ship against dock. Deck crew and supervising mate arrive on the focsle. Rat guards are removed from lines and stowed. A pilot line is fed to the tug and used to winch, first a medium line, and then the tow line back to the ship. Side mooring lines are singled up. Four bow mooring lines are slacked. Three lines are dropped from the dock and winched into the ship. Final side line and final bow line are dropped and winched into ship. The tug pulled her away, down the channel. The bow thruster was never used.

All day, a crew of 3 has been stripping the corrugated roof from a large wood frame warehouse next to the ship. Red sky at night. Two stars are visible in the southwest, even in the city. Planets perhaps, following the sun over the horizon. Venus and another planet, I think. I stepped outside for a look with the binoculars, but did not stay long because of the cold. Both here and in Antwerp, there are refineries nearby, with large burnoff flames, reminiscent of the scene in Lord of the Rings.

Day 39 Hamburg

Sunday, nice and sunny first half, then overcast. Seagulls are around in port. There were few at sea, and only close to land. I look forward to reading Jonathan Livingston Seagull again when I get home. After listening to the song a few times on the ipod, I decided to try mixing lime and coconut when I get home, and see what the big deal is. Have shared 3 meals with first new passenger. We communicate with some limitations. We both have our respective phrase books. I'm predicting we will be having life boat drill Tuesday morning, the first day back at sea. Made the weekly call home. Makes me think of 'ET phone home'.

Day 38 Hamburg

Saturday, there is more fresh snow on the ground. It was sunny and cold, changing to cloudy about 10 am. Saw a V formation of migrating birds. The sun is back again now. Hamburg is at 53 degrees N latitude, as far north as we will go on this entire voyage. If you have a road atlas, take a look at where 53 degrees crosses Canada, it's about 550 miles straight north of Minneapolis.

The afternoon sun shining through my aft cabin window is pleasant, and seems as least as low as it is at home in December. The leaves are gone here, and the days are shorter. My cabin temperature dropped down to 58 degrees F last night before the heat came on, but has been comfortable since. Reminded me of Minnesota.

The Shanghai has caught up with us again. Cargo activity continues, but is at a calmer pace today. I have not met the first new passenger yet, but will probably meet at dinner. The next 2 are scheduled to join us tomorrow.

Day 37 Hamburg

Friday, snowing and cold. I could have stayed home for this! Changed to mostly sunny and warmer, by mid day. Tied up at the dock at 1830 last night. The captain informed me that I had been cleared by Immigration without restriction. This was so much easier than Antwerp. The Immigration process in Antwerp for a freighter passenger was incredibly expensive (nearly 100 Euros of transit costs for 2 trips to Immigration).

The ship is a bee hive of activity today, with food replenishment underway, as well as cargo operations and other activites. I've been watching what I'm going to be eating for the next month or so, as it is loaded. I have language guides or phrase books for most of the places I will visit. I only have maps and tourist guides for Belgium and Japan. I also have some electronic information and images stored on my laptop. I thought there might be some travel guides in the ship's lounge. The books in the lounge get redistributed in rough weather. After lunch today, I straightened up the books, and found nothing. Fortunately, I am able to email home for more internet tourist information.

Guten Morgen. Wie geht es Ihnen? Tut mir leid. Ich verstehe klein Deutsch. Tomorrow, the first German passenger is scheduled to board. We are scheduled to depart Monday on a fairly long leg.

Day 36 Elbe River

Thursday, visibility 2 miles, foggy. Saw some sea birds. The tops of the whitecaps are blowing off in spray. Last night and this morning weren't too rough, but the swells caused considerable roll. Secured almost everything well before I went to bed, which was a good decision. Heard things crashing in other cabins. I forgot to move the plastic plant to the floor, but that takes care of itself. Square 1 gallon water bottles behave much better than any size round bottle, which will tip and roll back and forth. The swells in the North Sea are typically closer together than in the Atlantic, with high amplitude. In the Atlantic, the rolls were about 8 seconds apart. In the North Sea, they were 6 seconds apart. There is time at night to figure out things like this. From the 6th deck, it is difficult to acurately judge the height of the swells. The shower was challenging this morning. Staying vertical and drying require special care. The tray under the sink mirror has a 1inch metal lip. During the night, everything in the tray fell over, but stayed inside the metal lip.

The ship slowed and took on a pilot at noon. We have entered the Elbe estuary, which is still very wide. The roll has stopped. I can see land on both sides. We should arrive at the Hamburg dock in the early evening. Meal conversations are often interesting. Almost everyone has an opinion about the election. Status of snacks brought from home. Ann's special trail mix; Cashews, almonds, dried cherries: less than a cup. Most of the soynuts. 1pk Whole wheat crackers with fake cheddar cheese. Several pieces of delightful pear candy from Yonezawa. 10 mini salted nut rolls, I think I'm covered until Asia. Other Belgian dark chocolate, 2 bottles of Merlot from the Slop Chest, and 9 gallons of water for coffee, Nescafe instant regular and decaf.

Day 35 Departed Antwerp pm

Wednesday, Mittwoch in Deutsch. The day started with the promise of sun. There was some pink in the east, and pink contrails across some blue sky. Partly cloudy morning changing to cloudy and rainy. The ship was moving at 1430 local time. It is good to be moving again. 6 hours down the Schelde River, 16 hours at sea, 7 hours up the Elbe River to Hamburg. Will toot the horn going by HQ to let the owner know another ship has made it home safely. We left the Shanghai behind at the dock in Antwerp. The variety of seagoing ships and canal boats in the Antwerp harbor seems endless.

Just learned that the count of new German passengers joining us in Hamburg is up to 3. The engine and ship sound and vibration patterns are familiar now. Looking forward to the roll of the North Sea later tonight. Sometimes the North Sea is rough. I noticed the cargo on deck now is very securely attached.

The slop chest is open tonight, so it is time to replenishish my stores for the coming week. The crew is kind and helpful. Chicken and stir-fry noodles tonight for supper.

Day 34 Antwerp

Tuesday, cloudy and rainy. Today, a car took me to Immigration to get my Belgium exit stamp. My cost for the car was 55 Euros. While freighter cruises generally have a lower cost per day than passenger cruises, ground transportation costs are higher, because freighters dock far away from city centers, and immigration procedures may be less convenient. A few minutes ago, I saw a floating barge crane come by, carrying a large dock crane. The barge crane was the biggest I have ever seen, like something you might see on the Discovery Channel. I got a picture of the dock crane being lowered onto the dock, but not the barge crane. Another ship was in the way.

The Belgian dark chocolate was ok last night. I have 3 bars. At one square per night, they will last a month, until I can get some Asian jungle dark chocolate in Jakarta. Testing begins tonight for a new bottle of French bordeaux. I learned today that Belgium has a difficult climate for growing grapes, too cold and damp. There are some efforts at local wine making, however.

Watched a hold being loaded this afternoon with plywood crates of filtration equipment for Ho Chi Minh City. A computer program generates the load plan by crate, and for each hold, and for what will be loaded on top. The overall load must be balanced fore to aft, and port to starboard. The top to bottom weight distribution is also important. Then there is fuel weight, which changes over the course of a long trip. Virtually all modern ships have a large bulb on the bow, which is below water at sea. I have some pictures. It is empty. The sole purpose is to help the ship move through the water with less hydralic drag.

I hear the Dow was down to 8400 and gas at home is 1.74 a gallon. I saw a sign in Antwerp for 1 Euro a liter, also down from previous highs.

Day 33 Antwerp

Monday, cloudy, but no rain. Cabin temp is 65 F. Phoned home last night. I will miss the lefse this holiday.

The cargo transfer yesterday and today has been done by huge cranes from the dock. Two were drivable, with 54 rubber tires. One was on rails. They are taller than the ship, and move quickly and precisely. Watching from the bridge, I instinctively stepped back from the window, when one load came zooming by. Otherwise, it was another quiet day in port.

I wrote and read. Spent a few minutes in the German phrase book. Freut mich, Sie kennen zu lernen. The wine research continues. I began the first bottle of French Bordeaux last night. Wasn't anything to write home about, but it was better than 2 buck chuck. Tonight, I will start the research on Belgian dark chocolate. The cook loaned me a Time magazine with the Senate and House results. It is almost time to dine again, so over and out.

Day 32 Antwerp

Sunday, very foggy and hazy this morning. Now that the maintenance work is completed, the ship has been turned around and shifted to another berth for cargo operations. We are next to the Rickmers Shanghai, the ship for which I was originally ticketed. I received additional tentative itinerary information this morning. With more passengers joining us soon, some of my excellent access privileges will be a little more limited. Met the new electrical engineer at dinner last night. Assisted with a small translation task for a friend from Japan.

Day 31 Antwerp

Saturday, overcast, damp all day. 13 deg C. I'm told this is typical weather for this time of year. One month is gone already, three remaining. The departing electrician left me 5 books. He was returning to his family in Romania. We talked about energy efficient houses and energy conservation. He was friendly, and his English was good. After breakfast, the steward vacuumed my carpet and washed my walls. New linen and towels yesterday. Maintenance work continues on one of the 4 cranes. This crane can lift 325 metric tons. Up to half the lift is sometimes provided by shifting ballast. The work is interesting. Watched a new wire cable, too big around to wrap a hand, being threaded through all the pulleys. Cargo ops resume when the crane work is finished. We could leave late Tuesday. The present plan is to spend 4 days in Hamburg.

Day 30 Antwerp

Friday.
The previous 2 days turned pleasantly sunny in the afternoon. Today
remained rainy all day.

After breakfast and checkout, I stopped at a pharmacy to buy some seasickness medicine in case I need it.

I wanted to see the Central Rail Station. It has been described as a cathedral. The outside is undergoing some renovation, but the inside is expansive and impressive and busy. So much marble.

Afterward, I walked through the diamond center, looking for the Diamond Museum. Never found it, but the street was very interesting. There were many well-fed men in black, with black hats and beards, scurrying about.

My last objective before returning to the ship was to get 2 bottles of red wine, so that the research may continue. I think red wine does not travel well by freighter, so the local wine has been a treat. I found no liquor stores. Had a hard time finding a supermarket until I remembered that in some cities, food markets are located in the basements of department stores or shopping malls.

One side of an aisle was red, the other white. I bought some decaf, 3 bars of dark chocolate, an apple, two bottles of wine. The checkout clerk winked at me and wished me a happy weekend. I think perhaps the wine will last longer than the weekend.

My taxi experience was not stellar, but I had been warned.

Back on the ship, I think the crew is gaining some confidence in my ability to find my way back.

The periodic maintenance on the ship continues. We will be here a few more days.

Day 29 Antwerp

Thursday, written on Friday. The room was nice. At first, I missed the roll of the ship. There was a bathtub. I thought about using it, but settled for showers.

After complimentary breakfast, I set off for MuHKA, the contemporary art museum. Noticed the domes of the old Government building on the way.

Some of the contemporary art was too avant garde for me, but I ended up spending 2 hours there. I enjoyed the photo images of several artists on the second floor. Most of them were part of a group show called The Order of Things. I particularly liked Theatrum Orbis Terrarum by Marjolijn Dijkman, and Hans Eijkelblooms photos. Each of his many frames contained 9 to 15 snaps of people with a common characteristic. Examples were men with beer bellies, blond young ladies, couples, men in blue dress shirts, people wearing plaid or stripes or a common color.

Two artists who will remain nameless, sucked in the director with this stuff. One had a large room with condoms hanging from the ceiling. Each contained one or more objects, mostly vegetables. The second had a pitch black room with recorded sound playing. Maybe a bulb was burned out, but I don't think so. I know I could make displays like that, but I don't even want to.

On one of the upper floors, Fekovic, the artist who prefers to be called Documentarista, made a video of the sheepdog of another artist, Heyboer,
who died at 81. Heyboer lived in a large building in the Netherlands with 4 wives and their 17 dogs. His 5th wife lives across the street. I'm not making that up.

Walked to the Maritime Museum. It is located in the old city castle, along the River Schelde. It was mostly about Emigration to America, and wartime events. The old ship models and artifacts were interesting,
as well as the models of the emmigrant ships.

I walked through the old market square and past the cathedral. Stopped for a snack before returning to the hotel for an Aleve and a decaf.

Continued to research the red wine with, and after supper.

Day 28 Afternoon in Antwerp

Wednesday, part 2. Written on Friday. So, after immigration, I went to Antwerp city center, near the Central train station. I had Euro-coffee at McDonalds, and studied my book. I had a Thomas Cook book on Belgium, which was helpful. When I came out, I noticed a hotel next door. Got a room for 2 night. I was pretty sure how to get to the Fine Art Museum, but I asked the hotel lady to confirm. She said it was a 15 or 20 minute walk. I think she had longer legs than me, because it took me more than 20 minutes. The collection was excellent in both its content and condition. The Museum claims the worlds largest collection of Rubens. I also saw restoration and cleaning work in progress. I'll name a small sample of others: van Eyck, Metsijs, Titiaan, de Vos, Braekeleer, Uden, van Cleve, Beuckelaer, Jordaens, van Dyck. The marble sculptures were excellent. The exhibitions were ok. Some of the later artists were ok. I liked Janssens, Wouters, Berghe-Lady in purple dress playing piano, Ensor-Rower, Modiglianai, Delavaux. There was one large section devoted to nudes.

There were many late 19th century and later artists I won't name. Sorry, slashes in canvas don't count. I walked more slowly back to the hotel, passing the triangle park. I had a small evening meal and Aleve, before sampling the red wine.

Day 28 Antwerp!

Wednesday, horizon, sunny.
Yesterday, we docked about 1500. This port is huge and busy. Went
though a lock big enough to hold 4 ocean going ships. Many windmills
around, not the old Dutch kind, but the big new 3 blade jobs.

There are often special rules for passengers on freighters.
Tomorrow, the company will send a car for me to take me to
immigration. The car costs 20 Euros. Before we sail, I have to make
the same trip to get an exit stamp.

There are 2 possibilities I am considering right now. I could go to
Paris and try to get into the Louve. Plan B is to find a cheap hotel
in Antwerp and spend 3 days on Flemish art, and sampling Belgian red
wine, which the captain tells me is good. Uhh. Should know after my
next discussion with the captain.

My Bride tells me that she can track my travels by my charges. By
the way, international charging is not always as straight forward as
one might think. Foreign travel is a whole lot easier if you call
your credit card company in advance, and tell them where you will be
charging, and when. My list was long. The customer service person
kept saying, Is that it?

I finished GUNS, GERMS, and STEEL by Jared Diamond, a professor of
geography, which is always a topic of interest to travelers. I have
started his newer book COLLAPSE, How societies choose to fail or
succeed.

Day 27 Schelde River

Tuesday, 9 deg C, partly cloudy, showers. We anchored in a big ship parking lot last night about 2200. Weighed anchor at 0530 this morning. A local pilot has been steering since. Had a very smooth night and trip up the river. The water is a different color from the navy blue of the ocean. It looks shallower and greener. Saw some stars early this morning for the first time in days. I was hungrier this morning and ate more for breakfast. There are many more ships now, moving in line like a string of pack animals. There is a similar line in the opposite direction. The lines meander, always staying in the part of the river which is deep enough. We passed through a part of the Netherlands. This morning about 0900, when we entered the mouth of the river, some of the land behind the levees was lower than the water level. Should be at the Antwerp dock in early afternoon.

I may be off the air for a few days, depending on travel options in Antwerp. We may be here 7 or 8 days, before departure for Hamburg.

Day 26 English Channel

Monday, foggy, much gentler sea. Since 0200, the rolls have only been 5 degrees. 12 C. Some wind and swells from starboard aft. I recorded a video of the wind blowing off the tops of the whitecaps to spray. The rain has washed all the salt off my starboard window. Sunday must be pizza night, which is wonderful. Last night, I was given a non-slip pad. I use it on part of my desk top so my lamp and coffee cup and glass don't slide any more. I still keep almost everything else in drawers. I continue to see these white sea birds with black wing tips which can be pointed down. Erns? There are other ships now! Most are slower. There were 5 visible at the same time on the X and S band radars. Because of the fog, not all are visible with the naked eye.

Day 25 Atlantic Ocean, still

Sunday. My arrival expectations yesterday were 1 day premature. There are clouds or fog to the water on the horizon. Early, it is clear and sunny above, changing to partly cloudy. Definitely white caps and spray today, with moderate swells. The roll meter shows a max of 20 degrees to each side. Objects slide around, even in the dining room and on the bridge. Heard a crash from the galley. My cabin has everything secured now, and I remember to latch doors and drawers. A shipmate remarked this morning that he hand to take his water bottle to bed with him to keep if from rolling or sliding around. I decide not to walk the deck today. No ships. Saw more of the small white birds. Had my weekend breakfast of 1 egg, 1 piece of bacon, toast and coffee. Lunch was soup with added rice, sometimes salad. Time for an apple and a coffee now, at 1500. Dinner was great last night; meatballs, stir-fried celery, rice, spring rolls. Recorded some video of the rolls. Made my weekly call home. I'm a little overbudget on minutes, but will be having some days where I can't or won't connect. At 1600, we are south of Ireland. Swells are up to 5 meters now. Should be out of this in another 10 hours. One more time change tonight, so we will be 1 hour ahead of GMT, 7 hours ahead of CST. Most of western Europe is on this new time zone.

Day 24 Atlantic Ocean

Saturday at first light, the sky and water are battleship gray. The rest of the day is partly sunny. The wind is from the northeast. There is some spray from the top of the whitecaps, so this is probably Beaufort 5. I am not able to read as much when we have this much roll. Saw dolphins from the bridge this morning. I have only seen one other ship since Philadelphia.

We had another time zone change last night, and are on GMT, 6 hours ahead of CST. Last night after dark, I was watching the wake, and listening to music on the ipod, when the 'Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald' came up. The predominant swell is from the northwest, and causes the ship to yaw. When you are dancing, yaw is the twist part of 'Twist and Shout'. The swell hits the back of the ship first, moving it. As the swell moves down the side of the ship, it straightens the ship out again. So the wake looks like a corkscrew, and disappears in another length of the ship. I stowed almost everything in drawers or the closet. The fake plant is on the floor, where it appears happier, and doesn't fall down. The cabin looks un-lived-in now. We had some pretty good rolls last night, but my cabin was quiet.

We had drills again this morning. Today, I received pyrotek training; flares and the line shooter. Afterwards, I did a small load of laundry. From the roll meter, I see the maximum roll as of midday was 16 degrees either way. At the current rate, we will make Antwerp late Sunday. The pre-Europe party will not be held this evening, because of the swells. The low is to the northwest. Winds will shift to the northwest. Higher swells are forecast. If things go well, we will enter the shelter of the English Channel after midnight. DOUBLE BLOG ENTRIES If I lose the satellite connection during transmission, the whole entry is automatically re-sent on the following upload. As of yesterday, the existing double entries have been deleted for me. I am not able to do deletes from here.

Day 23 Atlantic Ocean

Friday morning, the horizon is cloudy all the way around. Some blue is visible above. The sea is mostly calm in the morning, with a few crests breaking. There are long, low swells from more than one direction, beating together. Sometimes they cancel each other, and sometimes they are additive, giving us a moderate roll. Roll today was 14 degrees max either way. Roll was a little more last night. Last evening, while I was working on my laptop, my coffee cup and glass were sliding back and forth on my desk top with the occasional stronger rolls. For the night, I put most stuff away, or on the floor. The artificial plant came down overnight.

Had a dream about poisonous snakes in Roxbury Park. The impact of my toe kicking the bed border woke me. In the serial dream, I used the city machine with its 9 banks of mowers to clean out the park. Slept well after that until breakfast. Sometimes, the aroma of breakfast from the ventilation system wakes me. We had another time zone change last night, and are on Azores time now, 1 hour before GMT. Yesterday afternoon, I walked 2 laps around the upper main deck. The sea and salt relentlessly attack the structure. On a working ship, the main time to chip and paint is at sea, weather permitting. I step carefully. Got permission for and received a very excellent engine room tour. Clean and bright. Had to wear ear protection. The slop chest is open for the 3rd time. I don't need anything this time. We are headed for a low near Europe. Higher swells are forecast for the early morning hours. The breaking wave crests have changed to white caps. I will eat light tonight. I hear that there will be 2 German passengers joining the ship in Hamburg, and an American in Singapore.

Day 22 Atlantic Ocean

Thursday, daylight came a little earlier, as we work our way east through this time zone. 14 degrees C. Light rain last night and this morning washed some of the salt from my side window. The sun peeked through the clouds briefly this morning. We passed through the Grand Banks overnight, and continue to make good time. The sea is still pleasant, although last night the maximum roll was 9 degrees starboard, 11 port. In the dark of the night, I counted seconds between rolls. The cycle is 8 seconds. As I look out from the bridge this morning, I can see this small, lower frequency swell from the port fore quarter. The ship has a steady roll, and a slight pitch today. There are almost white caps. A few wave crests break, for the first time since Philadelphia. Perhaps, Beaufort Scale 3. The wake disappears sooner when the water is not as smooth. This is incredibly fine weather for this time of the year in the North Atlantic. Sometimes, I see the same yellow-green floating sea plants, even larger clumps. I saw these off Florida. This afternoon, I saw small flocks of small birds floating next to these clumps, and finding things to eat in them.

Paul, last night we had duck. I am still full. Juice choices this morning were pineapple or tomato. The label read 'Jus de Tomato', and I was thinking 'just the tomato', but of course it is juice of tomato. Meals are offered for 1 hour, to accomodate people going on and coming off watch. I have created a playlist on the ipod. In the privacy of my cabin, I can sing along, and no one complains.

I was given limited permission to walk the main upper deck. Last night after supper, I made the loop. The distance from the accommodation structure to the bow is almost 2 football fields. At the bow, I go up one level to the fo'c's'l', to cross over to the other side. One loop is almost a quarter mile. Fo'c's'l' I love this word. It can have 0, 3, or 4 apostrophes. The early English sailors corrupted the word forecastle to focsl. Another example is bosun for boatswain. No one even bothers with the apostrophes anymore on some of these words. The focsl is the place where the anchor and mooring cables and winches are. There is a similar place for aft mooring gear. The main deck and focsl are very dangerous during cargo and mooring operations, and I am happy to stay out of the way and inside, at those times.

Day 21 Atlantic Ocean

Wednesday, cloudy horizon, some clear sky above.
While there was some roll overnight, today the sea and the sailing is
smooth and we make good time. When the sea is so smooth, the ship's
wake is visible much further behind us.

We are south of Newfoundland, near the Grand Banks. Morning comes later
as we move further north. It was still dark at 0730.

I wonder if a house or a bed could be constructed with a gentle roll.

Today marks the end of the third week already. Time flies. Nibbles
from home may last another 3 weeks.

Actually saw another ship this morning. It was a fishing trawler or
factory.

Paul asked about the food.
This is not a French restaurant, thankfully. Food is plentify, and
prepared to satisfy European and Asian preferences. I ask for smaller
portions, and skip courses.

Our 2 tables each contain a large lazy susan, with meal appropriate
condiments, bread, fruit, yogurt, water, and extras. At breakfast, it
also contains milk and juice. At the other 2 meals, it contains my kind
of salad, soup, perhaps oven warm bread, or warm macaroons, other
pleasant surprises. Soup at noon today was wonton soup.

Breakfast is cold cerial, eggs to order, bacon or ham or sausage, toast,
juice, fruit, coffee or tea.

The main course for the noon and evening meals has been beef, pork,
veal, chicken, or fish, plus a vegetable. There is a choice of
starches; potato, or steamed rice, perhaps fried rice, or rice prepared
other ways. The protein at noon today was tilapia. We have also had
spaghetti and meatballs, hamburgers, fried noodles, beets, sweet and
sour cabbage, steak, and other good things I don't remember. There may
be a dessert or ice cream. Coffee or tea.

Day 20 Atlantic Ocean

Tuesday, 16 degrees C, visible sunrise.

Last night, my slop chest order was delivered; 12 gallons of water, 3
bottles of Merlot, 3 bottles of Cabernet.

Early morning, there was a low cloud cover. Now, mid-afternoon, since
mid-morning, the sky has been blue and the sun is bright.

The sea is quite smooth, perhaps Beaufort scale 1: Scaly ripples, no
foam crests. Walking outside on the Pilot Deck is easy and pleasant.

Speed is good. We are going straight across to Europe, not the great
circle route, which would take us further north. This is to avoid any
possible bad weather that is common further north, this time of year.

The great circle route is the shortest surface path between any 2
surface points. It is defined by an imaginary plane passing through
those 2 surface points and the center for the earth. It does not
consider the jet stream, currents, winds, or weather.

Breakfast this morning was my usual toast and coffee, plus a grapefruit
half. For the midday meal, most days I have a little salad and soup
over a scoop of rice, skipping the main course.

As I read and write on the bridge after breakfast, I can see no other
ships or smoke in any direction. A single small bird flies by.

I have my laptop configured to display 3 times now; CST, local, and
Greenwich Mean Time.

We'll be in Antwerp several days. I may take a side trip to Paris.
Going to need some extra Euros for that, I think.

Again, there is a time zone change tonight.

Day 19 Atlantic Ocean

Monday started overcast, turning to partly sunny. 12 degrees C.

No sunset last night or sunrise this morning. I'm starting to get red
sky withdrawal, or maybe it is red wine withdrawal.

After a minor loading complication, we finally escaped Philadelphia
after 0200 this morning. For most river channels and harbors, a local
pilot comes aboard. The pilot was with us until around 0800. The safe
navigation channel is marked by buoys and on charts, and extends a good
distance into the ocean.

The ship turned northeast around noon. The sailing was smooth in the
river channel, and is still smooth here at sea. There are no whitecaps, so
far today.

My bride asked me about the 'slop chest'. While many ships, like this
one, are new and modern and safe, some of the language of the sea goes
back to the days of sailing ships. I'll list a few examples below, but
allow me one aside. When I was in the Navy 40 years ago, some of the
old chief petty officers claimed to long for the days of 'wooden ships
and iron men'.

Master: The ship's master is the captain.
Port means a safe place to discharge or take on cargo or passengers.
You may be familiar with the expressions, 'a girl in every port' and
'any port in a storm'.
Port also means an opening, like a port hole or window.
Port (side) means the left side.
Starboard is the right side.
Fore is the front.
Aft is the back.
'Two points abaft the port beam' means 2 compass points behind straight
left from the front of the ship.
Naut: Even with wide use of the metric system, nautical miles are still
used and understood. A speed of 1 naut is 1 nautical mile per hour. A
nautical mile is slightly longer than an english mile.
Poop deck: Usually the first deck above the main deck.
And finally, Slop Chest: There is no 7-11 on a working freighter. The
Master controls a small store of duty free items, referred to as the 'slop
chest'. These items are only available on certain days, in international
waters. At the Master's discretion, passengers and crew may purchase
tobacco, soft drinks, beer, liquor, wine, chocolate, and select other items.
My request today is for 18 liters of mineral water and some red wine.

It occurred to me this morning that standing at the front window of the
bridge is far far better than riding a freight train.

We cross another time zone tonight.

Day 18 Philadelphia 5

Sunday
There was no sunset last night. Skies became overcast mid-afternoon.

Because of clouds on the horizon, I saw no sun until 8:30 this morning.
The temperature is brisk, 6 degrees C. That's about 43 F. With the
colder weather, there has been an abrupt change in the color of the
hardwoods.

I stay out of the way and under the radar, so I am granted bridge
privileges most of the time. The bridge has become my morning sun room.
I go there after breakfast to look at the charts, check position and
bearing, to see what is going on, and to read or write. There are raised
chairs on either side. One is only for the captain. I sit on the
opposite side of the bridge with my binoculars. There is a sill for my
coffee cup, book, and notebook.

We are still at the dock. I watched the loading of the 2 large armatures
from rail cars this morning. Very slow and careful. Two more slightly
smaller armatures appeared on a 100 ton semi trailer. Other large metal
items are being loaded, and another large crate. It is not just a matter
of loading items into a hold, or onto the deck. Items are chained or
otherwise braced and secured so they will not shift at sea.

May leave Philadelphia late this afternoon. I am ready.

Paid my monthly slop chest charge for October to the Captain this
morning. $8.00. The November charge will be higher.

Day 17 Philadelphia 4

Saturday. Yet another clear mild day.
Today, there are high, thin sirus clouds.

Last night again, the red sunset behind the downtown skyline was beautiful.
It reminded me of the gloaming at Subic Bay in the Philippines. There was a
mountain on the penninsula across the bay, to the northwest. The large bay
extended further north. Spectacular and extended sunsets were frequent. It
was not unusual to see every color of the rainbow in the sky, and reflected on
the waters of the bay.

Overnight, the ship repositioned slightly, a little further west along the
pier. We may depart at or after midnight.

Laundry
I need to take a picture of the washing machines. Some ships have tried top-
loaders, but they fail at sea. While the roll of the ship probably helps the
washing, it causes the drum of a top-loader to hit the side of the machine and
stop. These tumble washers have 9 pre-programmed wash processes, with
different temperatures, and some with 2 wash cycles. On the top of the
machine is a lid, with 3 channels. Soap can be placed in the first 2, for
each of the 2 wash cycles. The 3rd is for conditioner. I don't think my
clothes have ever seen conditioner, and there may not be any on the ship.
Afterwards, I asked about the ECO button on the washers. Pressing it saves
more water.

Walking on the dock.
The activity on the dock is sometimes intense. I had a flashback of working
on the flight deck of an aircraft carrier. One difference was that here I
didn't have to be concerned about being sucked into a jet intake. There are
trucks, trains, forklifts, and other vehicles moving around briskly. It is
necessary to stay sharp and look frequently in all 6 directions. On the
freighter, and close to the ship, there may be crane loads above. Walking
under a suspended load can be fatal. I don't do it. At the same time, it is
necessary to watch the ground. There may be train rails, debris, traffic
barriers to trip over. Like the carrier deck, it is more hazardous at night.

My friend Dave has reminded me that today is the anniversary of 'The Perfect
Storm'. Dave kindly loaned me his ipod with 12,000 songs and 86 movies. It
has been a great suppliment to my reading and writing. Thanks, Dave.